The day begins in glorious fashion. I have a shower in a large clean unit, a
place where normal human beings live their lives. I wrap myself up afterwards in a large fresh
soft towel. I then sit in the morning
sun at a round table enjoying a nice breakfast of the ubiquitous rolls and cold
cuts with Jochen and Sarah. I have hit
the point where I don’t want a ham and cheese sandwich first thing in the
morning any longer, so I spread nutella on the fresh roll like a six-year-old. I have eaten more bread this week than I have
the rest of the year combined.
We are on a tight schedule for me to visit Felix, a mutual
friend of the team. He is a winemaker
locally with vineyards in the south Pfalz and a small hotel to receive
guests. He is the 5th
generation of his family to be involved with winemaking and he has radically
increased quality from when his bulk minded father ran the operation. Felix is generous with his time as he is
still at the tail end of harvest. There
is some sauvignon blanc and Riesling still hanging in the vineyards, some with
noble rot, in the hopes to make a high quality beerenauslese style wine. The fruit looks good. He just needs to white knuckle some more
quality hang time.
We drive up a ridge to see a special vineyard, a Riesling
vineyard on a slope overlooking the valley.
It’s a panoramic view, the entire valley up to the Black Forest is
visible. We head back to his cellar and
he and I start to get wine wonky talking about fermentation vessels, indigenous
yeasts, and old oak casks. This is about
the point that Jochen and Sarah start to glaze over. It must be absolutely brutal if you just have
a passing interest, but for me it’s a great learning experience. This only gets compounded for the couple when
we sit down to taste Felix’s wines and bomb through 12-16 wines including a low
dosage sekt, scheurebe, pinot gris, and pinot blanc oaked and non-oaked. Then we get down to business with the
Rieslings. As expected, the sloped
vineyard is special. I buy two bottles of
the Riesling and one of the oaked pinot blanc for Sugar’s birthday. I wish I could carry more home. Felix and I go back and forth with talk of
acidity levels, secondary flavors, and speculation of aging potential while
poor Jochen and Sarah must want to kill themselves. They show admirable patience with me.
I have to take a train to Stuttgart to meet the band for
soundcheck. The combination of the
Germans having no faith that I can take a train by myself mixed with the
potential fury of the Stuttgart concert promoter Robin “Reverend Reichstag”
Baeur has everyone petrified. This fear
has Jochen walking me to the platform to insure I get on the right train. There are only four platforms. Each one of these platforms is clearly
marked. I could not fuck this up if I tried. I try to explain to Jochen that I am the
“grown up” of the Whiskey Daredevils organization, the go-to person for
logistics. He can go home. This has no impact whatsoever. Jochen shakes his head. “If anything goes wrong, I want Robin to know
I did my job and put you on that train.”
It’s that type of thinking that explains a lot of how World War II
happened. I’m not being judgmental, just
observant. I also don’t blame him. Robin will lose his fucking mind if I am
late.
I switch trains in Karlsruhe. It’s a tight switch and I have to hustle over
to Platform 10. I make it with about a
minute to spare and the train lurches from the station. I note on some railroad materials in the seat
pocket that “Stuttgart” is not at the end of this line. Instead it is some town I have never heard
of. Oh no. Did they switch the
platform? If I am on the wrong train,
the consequences will be devastating.
Not because I can’t figure out how to get to Stuttgart on another train
in time for the show. That would be
easy. The real disaster would be the
ceaseless wave of criticism I would receive from Christoph for messing up something
so simple as a train trip. It would be a
dishonor I would literally hear about it for the rest of my life. “Ah, Mr. Jagger… You cannot be trusted to get on the correct
train! How could I trust you not to lose
the van keys? I had better go with you
to unlock the door!” Let me assure you
that for the rest of my days I would hear, “…just like you took the wrong train
from Landau” as a feature of every future conversation.
There is no question I will do whatever is necessary to
avoid that scenario. If necessary I will
exit the train at the next stop, buy a car, and then abandon the vehicle in
Stuttgart without a word of it to anyone.
No expense is too high to avoid a smug Christoph. A text message pings in from Sister Ant. “Are you riding on the train to Stuttgart
right now?” I can practically feel the
nerves crackle across the phone. Sister
Ant is now on the clock and facing the potential wrath of Reverend Reichstag. I am “the package” and I must be delivered to
Robin. I respond. “Decided to smoke cigarettes and drink
Desperados with some cool Turkish guys I met hanging out at the train
station. I’ll get to the club
eventually.” She knows I am probably
kidding, but she can’t be 100% sure.
The train makes a local stop. Rapid fire German comes across the PA
speaker. I think I might be OK as I pick
up a couple of words. I am not 100%
sure, but the position of the sun lets me know I am at least headed in the
right general direction of Stuttgart.
The topography begins to look familiar.
Stuttgart is a city sitting inside a giant land bowl and the train cuts
through tunnels cut into the hills. The
station approaches. Thank God I don’t
have to haggle in a German used car lot this afternoon.
I have to take my roller bag about ¾ of a mile to the
club. The train station is filled with
Oktoberfest revelers in non-ironic lederhosen and St. Pauli Girl dresses. Most of these people are in their late
20s/early 30s and look a little wasted now from “pre-gaming” on their way to
the event. These look like the same guys
that cruise every nightclub strip in every city on the weekend. It’s like an NFL tailgate with no game, just
endless binge drinking. It’s a German
Bro scene all the way. Rumor has it the
beer tent gets pretty “rapey” starting around 9p.
I have to walk through a street fair for a portion of the
walk. It’s the Cannstatter Volksfest, an
Old World version of a County Fair. Carts
with faux old time adornments sell German versions of funnel cakes and cheese
on a stick. In this case that means wild
game sausage, cheesy flatbread, and chocolate covered gingerbread cookies. I pass a ride that spins around and around
over small hills. I think they call it
The Alps at most amusement parks. Just
like every one of these I have ever seen, there is a big PA system blasting 70s
rock music with no inherent connection to the old fashioned Alps recreational
scene on the ride. I don’t know what Bob
Marley’s “Buffalo Soldier” is adding to the ambiance, but perhaps it is better
than Foghat.
I get to the venue, Goldmarks, and find the backline has
already been set up. Robin’s mother has
cooked dinner for us, which is the norm.
She always makes us regional home cooked meals, which we love. Stuttgart is always a special show on the
tour for me, and I can already feel an electricity in the air. I am ready to play today, and we are doing
two full sets. Hector sits across from
me and tucks into the meal, which is a chicken dish served with rice. He seems really happy that it resembles
Puerto Rican food. It can get tough
after a week of eating oddly named sausages.
Leo and Sugar nap in a room on the side of the stage. It feels like we are in a good place to bring
it tonight.
Friends we have made over the years begin to trickle
in. I get a pair of briefs from the guys
in the Klapprad Motherfuckers, a really funny idea where a small group of guys
race these fold up bikes while wearing gang type color jackets and bushy 70s
porn mustaches. These guys show up at
these mild recreational events waltzing around in dangerous looking jackets
with “Klapprad Motherfuckers” on the backs facing off against suburban looking
competition that don’t seem to have a grasp of what these guys are all
about. It really makes me laugh. I would definitely join if I lived here.
I meet an interesting man known as “Frau Schmutz”. He is a guy in his late 50s that is a local
character. He is wearing a sparkly tight
red top like a superhero. Silver bikini
briefs are stuffed like an enormous cock Superman. These are worn with assless leather
chaps. We talk for a bit and I learn he
is on welfare, which is not surprising in that I think most offices have
policies against assless chaps. He carefully
plans for special events like this by being very careful with his money. He maintains a focus on his own personal
fashion sense as his identity, making most of the outfits himself. He plans on doing some dancing tonight. He is a real character, an important part of
any real scene.
We play our two sets to the best of our ability. The crowd responds with a lot of energy. This is a good room. Hector is killing it tonight. My voice, which is really tired, is somehow
raising a tick to the challenge of the two sets. We play a total of 37 songs. Frau Schmutz is dancing like crazy with a
preppy young girl he just met. People
are crammed in tight. It’s loud, but in
a good way. The room just feels
good. It is my favorite show of the tour
so far. I’m proud of how we played.
We are still in the “Official Sugar Birthday Window” (as
defined by Sugar and Antje). They are
now completely focused on the dance party after the gig. A DJ starts spinning
really good genre friendly tunes. Antje
has connected with a man in a cowboy shirt that we codename “The Gigilo
Cowboy”. Sugar dances with Frau Schmutz.
I am knocking back some really good local pils making shit talk with some guys
when Antje orders me to take part in “Dance Party”. That rockabilly re-make of “Tainted Love”
comes on the sound system. I do a
special dance where during the two beats before the “Tainted Love” chorus I
make exaggerated pelvic thrusts. Sugar
sees this and screams out loudly over the music at me in a frustrated
rage. “YOU ARE RUINING DANCE
PARTY!” My plan has worked. I am off the
hook.
I am staying with Antje’s friend Oliver again in his
apartment on top of an office building in the Stuttgart City Center. He is the guy that I mistakenly assured that
Trump wouldn’t win the primary much less the Presidency, so he could just
relax. Oops. It’s late.
We walk back to his place through the shattered remains of the
Oktoberfest Bros. Guys weave and piss in
the shrubs. A girl sits with her head in
her hands on a bench. I roll past with
my suitcase, the wheels making a racket on cobblestones. Rudy the Cat greets us as we get into the
apartment. We discuss Oliver’s
separation from his girlfriend over scotch.
She did the 2018 version of opening a cupcake shop. She left all of her possessions and
relationships behind to become a wandering yoga instructor. This yoga shit is dangerous, like
Scientology. People just get in too
deep.
I sleep in a bed with mosquito netting as Rudy the Cat looks
on with disapproval.